OK, I used gypsum to hit the sulfate and calcium chloride to hit the chloride. And then used baking soda to raise the pH to 5.4. That puts my calcium at 143. Is that too high for this beer?
What about with distilled water? Is there an advantage to using RO over distilled?
I'm new to the water chemistry aspect of brewing. Is getting the pH dialed in the primary concern for the mash? And then having the minerals dialed in for the boil?
Is there anything wrong with not adding any minerals during the mash and just using acid to reduce the pH for the mash. And then add all the minerals during the boil?
Is there anything wrong with not adding any minerals during the mash and just using acid to reduce the pH for the mash. And then add all the minerals during the boil?
Pretty much follow the water chemistry primer in the brew science section, only for these styles err towards 1.5 or 2 tsp cacl per 5 gallons with 0.5 to 1 tsp gypsum.
Braufessor: Any suggestions for getting this recipe up to around 6.5-7.5%? Your finished product looks beautiful but I like my IPAs a little bigger. I suppose I could just add some Dextrose, but wondering if you've experiemented with increasing any of the grain bill. Would the water profile stay the same, or would I need to increase any of the additions (assuming starting with 100% RO)?
Thanks!
Braufessor,
Do standard clearing techniques (Irish Moss, cold crash with gelatin, or what have you?) work with a brew like this? If so, how is flavor and mouth feel affected?
Every batch I've done similar to this has been privy to whirlfloc and a cold crash and it some how still ends up kind of hazy (which I'm okay with).
I feel like there should be a new official style for Unfiltered Pale Ales and Unfiltered IPA.
Anyone on here brewing tomorrow?
Every batch I've done similar to this has been privy to whirlfloc and a cold crash and it some how still ends up kind of hazy (which I'm okay with).
I feel like there should be a new official style for Unfiltered Pale Ales and Unfiltered IPA.
Anyone on here brewing tomorrow?
Have these numbers been tried yet?+1 for sure - should have included that too.
I will give those numbers a try - maybe even this week. Gonna brew another batch tomorrow as normal. I will try to get a second batch in this week with those numbers to put them head to head.
Which ones? My suggestion of 180 Cl and 100 SO4 has been tried successfully several times
Yea your numbers. Was wondering if the op had tried it with his recipe.
I guess I would do everything the same - first dry hop in the primary at day 5 or so. Let it go to day 12 maybe just like normal.
At that point, what I might try is this:
*Day 12 add final dry hop in a boiled muslin bag to primary fermenter
*Place fermenter up on counter - so that you don't need to disturb it when it comes time to transfer for bottling.
*Day 14 boil up priming sugar solution ( I use to use about 2/3 cup or a touch less for 5 gallons to get lower carb)
*Pour priming sugar solution into sanitized bottling bucket
* Transfer beer onto priming sugar to aid in mixing. Stir lightly with sanitized spoon to mix as it is transferrring
* Bottle as normal.
Another possibility would be to use a bottling bucket as a primary fermenter, do all the hopping in the primary and then cold crash the primary for a couple days - bottle directly from the bottling bucket/primary fermenter using the priming tablets. This would eliminate some of the steps where oxygen pickup is most likely.
I guess (to me) the only real differences would be finding a way to minimize oxygen pickup (easier to do with kegs than bottles) and also Carbonation (you want it a touch on the low side in my opinion).
If you are using muslin bags to contain the hops - which might be more necessary with bottling - use big bags, or multiple bags so the hops don't just swell up into a solid golfball or baseball - you want them as lose as possible and exposed surface area.
will dry hop #1 be ok for 9 days (day 5 to day 14) in primary?
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