What SRM is this?
Lighter one is 4.0-4.5. Darker one is 5.5-6.0 range.
What SRM is this?
+1 for sure - should have included that too.
I will give those numbers a try - maybe even this week. Gonna brew another batch tomorrow as normal. I will try to get a second batch in this week with those numbers to put them head to head.
I like the higher chloride level as it makes for a bigger mouthfeel. I also like to push the sulfate up in tandem as it keeps some crispness in the hops flavour. The overwhelming effect is still of juicy hops, just a little more defined.
I arrived at those numbers by carefully measuring and dosing the relevant salts into finished beer, then estimating appropriate liquor ion concentrations and doing a couple of test brews to really narrow it down.
Well I like this idea more especially since you took such a scientific and analytical approach to it, not just throwing stuff in until you get the desired effect. Maybe I'll brew my numbers this batch then run another ipa using conan and then your numbers and hopefully they'll be brewed close enough that I'll be able to do side by side tastings to really taste the effect.
One of my many professional hats is analytical chemist, so measuring stuff to be able to repeat it is a forte.
The chloride makes a big difference to the mouthfeel in my experience. The high sulfate and low chloride profile is well established and makes great beer, but you need to lean heavily on the malt bill to bring the mouthfeel.
I'm going to brew this tomorrow but was thinking of a second batch with a different hop combination. Do you have any good similar recipes using Nelson Sauvin or other similar tropical hops?
I had a TG PsuedoSue for the first time yesterday and damn did that have a fantastic nose on it. Best smelling beer I've ever had. It almost smelled a bit like it had Nelson in it. This beer was great.
Last night I was able to get a can of Heady Topper that I want to grow up the yeast in it just to see how similar it is to the Omega DIPA "Vermont" yeast.
It's nice to have options I see based on water profile. I'm seeing I can use the same grain bil and really alter mouthfeel by water adjustments. Clean and crisp is higher sulfate and low chloride and fuller mouthfeel and creaminess with higher chloride and lower sulfate. Am I looking at this right even with mash temps still in the 150 range ? Almost 2 yrs into ag being and I love that I'm learning stuff all the time although I just got into water chemistry thanks to yooper and it's completely changed my beers. It's no joke water chemistry matters.
And you can always add salts to the finished beer to see what they do to the taste. It's a great way to identify batch to batch changes before you brew the next batch.
I totally agree that you should focus less on the absolute numbers and their purported effects, and adjust your beer to your own personal taste
Last night I was able to get a can of Heady Topper that I want to grow up the yeast in it just to see how similar it is to the Omega DIPA "Vermont" yeast.
Make sure you start small - 200-300ml of starter wort @1.020-1.030 gravity. I find it can take a couple days before you really notice activity. Depends on how fresh the Heady Topper is too.
how high is it ok for calcium? to get 100/180 sulfate/chloride I have a calcium level well above 100. Thanks
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Can you suggest a dry yeast for this recipe? I am still pretty much a newb and nervous about moving to liquid yeast.
With extract - you don't need to worry about pH as you are not mashing. You may know the mineral content of the water you are using, but you really don't know about the mineral content of the water that was used to make the extract. So, there is a certain amount of minerals already present in the extract itself. It might be high, it might be low - but you don't know what it is. So, adding on top of it is a bit of a guessing game.
That said - you can absolutely add minerals to the boil kettle for the purpose of flavor/perception. You can even add to finished beer to get a feel for additions. If my mineral additions are going to affect my pH in a way that is too extreme, I will add some of them to the boil kettle. If I was adding to extract, I would start maybe on the lower side a bit...... say 100 chloride and 50 sulfate for instance and see what you think. You can raise or lower on future batches based on your preferences.
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Can you suggest a dry yeast for this recipe? I am still pretty much a newb and nervous about moving to liquid yeast.
There is nothing like Conan yeast. The double pitch is a great way to go so you don't have to make a starter. Another great way to make a starter is to make a low gravity beer like 1.040 starting gravity or less (you can also do a smaller batch). It also gives you a chance to learn the yeast. Using liquid yeast (at times at least) opens up so many brewing doors for you if you have only used dry before. For the record, I keep a few dry yeasts in my Arsenal for easy brew days.
Double pitch is just a marketing term. All it really means is that they package twice as many cells as the typical liquid yeast providers such as Wyeast and White Labs.
If you check out a pitching rate calculator (eg MrMalty), you'll see that you need about 100-100bn cells for a 2.5 gallon batch at 1.055. Depending on the viability of the yeast when you receive and actually use it, you will not be overpitching by much if at all based on 200bn packaged cells.
I'm looking to start with distilled and build up the profile from there. I'm using the Bru'n spreadsheet and I'll be damned if I can get the adjustments figured out. I started with Braufessor's profile from the first post and then changed the sulfate and chloride to 100/180. I can nail 5 of the 6 numbers but always end up with 1 number that is way off. Of the 6 numbers to dial in, which one is the least important? Or is there some simpler way to adjust the profile?
That is easy. Completely ignore bicarbonate. And when it gives you a negative number for same, ignore that, too. That is a glitch in the program, not a clue that you've just invented negative salt.
I agree - if I was going to ignore a number..... it would have to be bicarbonate - ESPECIALLY if using RO. My tap water is high in bicarbonate naturally, and thus there is some hardness to the profile when I use 80% RO. However, if I was starting with 100% RO, I would never try to add bicarbonate to it.
OK, so by ignoring bicarb, I can get within a few ppm of each of the other 5 numbers in Bru'n. I'm using gypsum, epsom salt, canning salt and calcium chloride. That leaves my bicarb number at zero. Is that OK?
Is it safe to assume that RO water basically has 0 minerals in it?
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