So I have this control box that I was making for my "Brutus" direct fired mash build. Along the way I decided to go electric and make a "Kal Clone" with my Sabco kegs. So since I am electronically challenged I decided to buy a completely assembled control box from Kal. So now I do not have a need for this box.
This control box is 16"x16" and 8" deep with the door. It was beige in color when I bought it and I had the box completely powder coated a black semi gloss color inside and out professionally. I cut the square holes for the pids with my Bosch jigsaw, and used "Greenlee" punches for making the holes for the switches, pilot lights, and plug receptacles. It has 3 "Auber Instruments" 2362 pids (they were meant for controlling Honeywell gas valves), a 24 volt transformer 75Va, hot, neutral, and ground bus bars, inline fuse, "Auber" ASL-51 timer, buzzer alarm/light, keyed power on switch, on/off switches for the pumps, timer, and temp alarms, on/off/on switches for the pids for the HLT & MLT, used for auto/off/manual modes, and to control the light for which temp your looking at, either on the boil kettle or chiller with the same probe, on the third pid.
I believe all the pilot lights and switches were purchased from "Automation Direct" and the pilot lights are led and not incandescent. I used "Neutrik Power Con" connectors for the 24v valves and "Neutrik" color coded XLR connectors for the temp probes (see photos). The water and wort plug receptacles on the box are "Leviton" straight and not twist lock, the main power receptacle is a twist lock. The box has stainless steel handles mounted on the door, top, and bottom for protection, and to hold onto for moving it around.
All the labels were custom made and I put magnetic strips on the bottom, so they are removable or they can easily be repositioned, as they are now magnet labels. I made cords for the three "Auberins" temp probes, which are color coded with the XLR ends. I put stainless steel cord wrap on all the cords and used clear heat shrink tubing on the ends. The three temp probes are 4 inches long. I also made cords for the two 24volt valves, with the "Power Con" connectors on one end, (the other end is bare so you can wire it to your Honeywell valve) and I put stainless steel cord wrap on these cords as well.
The main power cord is a "Rigid" heavy duty 12 gauge extension cord. I put a "Leviton" female receptacle on the female end to attach to the male end, on the control box. I also wrapped this entire cord in stainless steel wrap. Also included is miscellaneous small gauge wire for the pids, black cable zip ties, cable tie mounts (stick them to the inside to keep the wires where you want), a bag of blue #6 narrow spade connectors, a bag of red #8 spade connectors, plastic spiral wire keeper (used for wires that move with the door), and more stuff here and there that I will throw in....Whew!
I have somewhere around $1,200 invested in this control box, (if you consider I had to buy the punches to make the holes and the powder coating wasn't cheap) and I also ordered everything separately, a little at a time and didn't buy a kit. I am asking $600.00 plus shipping, if you want it shipped. If you live in Florida I can drive and meet you somewhere in the middle if you want.
The box as I have it designed might not fit exactly into the build you have going. You can switch out the pids or timer if you want and the holes will be just fine for the same size pids or timers of a different model. You could easily adapt this control box to fit your needs with a little effort. The box is partially wired, but "I CAN NOT CLAIM THAT IT IS WIRED CORRECTLY" even the little part that is done. You can take off the wire and start over or I can do it for you, your choice. All in all a pretty sweet box for the right person out there...... Something to think about. Let me know!
John
Here are the pics:
Lone Wolf Emblem Not Included....
Here you see the magnetic labels, just put them on and align and adjust them as you wish.
Temp probe cords with "Neutrik" XLR connectors and Honeywell valve cords with "Neutrik Power Con" connectors.
Comes with everything you see here and some extra odd and end stuff I will throw in.
This control box is 16"x16" and 8" deep with the door. It was beige in color when I bought it and I had the box completely powder coated a black semi gloss color inside and out professionally. I cut the square holes for the pids with my Bosch jigsaw, and used "Greenlee" punches for making the holes for the switches, pilot lights, and plug receptacles. It has 3 "Auber Instruments" 2362 pids (they were meant for controlling Honeywell gas valves), a 24 volt transformer 75Va, hot, neutral, and ground bus bars, inline fuse, "Auber" ASL-51 timer, buzzer alarm/light, keyed power on switch, on/off switches for the pumps, timer, and temp alarms, on/off/on switches for the pids for the HLT & MLT, used for auto/off/manual modes, and to control the light for which temp your looking at, either on the boil kettle or chiller with the same probe, on the third pid.
I believe all the pilot lights and switches were purchased from "Automation Direct" and the pilot lights are led and not incandescent. I used "Neutrik Power Con" connectors for the 24v valves and "Neutrik" color coded XLR connectors for the temp probes (see photos). The water and wort plug receptacles on the box are "Leviton" straight and not twist lock, the main power receptacle is a twist lock. The box has stainless steel handles mounted on the door, top, and bottom for protection, and to hold onto for moving it around.
All the labels were custom made and I put magnetic strips on the bottom, so they are removable or they can easily be repositioned, as they are now magnet labels. I made cords for the three "Auberins" temp probes, which are color coded with the XLR ends. I put stainless steel cord wrap on all the cords and used clear heat shrink tubing on the ends. The three temp probes are 4 inches long. I also made cords for the two 24volt valves, with the "Power Con" connectors on one end, (the other end is bare so you can wire it to your Honeywell valve) and I put stainless steel cord wrap on these cords as well.
The main power cord is a "Rigid" heavy duty 12 gauge extension cord. I put a "Leviton" female receptacle on the female end to attach to the male end, on the control box. I also wrapped this entire cord in stainless steel wrap. Also included is miscellaneous small gauge wire for the pids, black cable zip ties, cable tie mounts (stick them to the inside to keep the wires where you want), a bag of blue #6 narrow spade connectors, a bag of red #8 spade connectors, plastic spiral wire keeper (used for wires that move with the door), and more stuff here and there that I will throw in....Whew!
I have somewhere around $1,200 invested in this control box, (if you consider I had to buy the punches to make the holes and the powder coating wasn't cheap) and I also ordered everything separately, a little at a time and didn't buy a kit. I am asking $600.00 plus shipping, if you want it shipped. If you live in Florida I can drive and meet you somewhere in the middle if you want.
The box as I have it designed might not fit exactly into the build you have going. You can switch out the pids or timer if you want and the holes will be just fine for the same size pids or timers of a different model. You could easily adapt this control box to fit your needs with a little effort. The box is partially wired, but "I CAN NOT CLAIM THAT IT IS WIRED CORRECTLY" even the little part that is done. You can take off the wire and start over or I can do it for you, your choice. All in all a pretty sweet box for the right person out there...... Something to think about. Let me know!
John
Here are the pics:
Lone Wolf Emblem Not Included....
Here you see the magnetic labels, just put them on and align and adjust them as you wish.
Temp probe cords with "Neutrik" XLR connectors and Honeywell valve cords with "Neutrik Power Con" connectors.
Comes with everything you see here and some extra odd and end stuff I will throw in.
