Been trying to adopt as many LODO techniques as I can, and I have had enough success that I think there's something here. Maybe something really good.
I brewed an Amber on December 3rd. I did two LODO techniques--pre-boiling the strike water, and using a mash cap. I do BIAB and doughed-in the normal way, adding the grist to the top of the water and stirring. I had a half campden-tablet in the strike water, and beyond that, no other LODO techniques were used.
I am sitting here, 20 days later, drinking one of the best Ambers I've ever had. I had one, and sat here looking at the empty glass.....now I have a mostly-full glass. But it's going down fast.
One question many of us have about LODO is whether we have to do everything recommended to have a positive result. I can't speak about all times and places, but this is a really good Amber. It was really good at just over 2 weeks, too, which is surprising. I would say that there was some positive effect of the LODO approach here, and it's a rich and flavorful beer. I'll post the recipe at the end here.
***********************
But here's where it gets interesting...er. Two weeks later, 12/17, I brewed a Pils. I did a few other things that should help:
I preboiled the strike water in my kettle, then drained it as it was boiling into a pre-heated igloo cube cooler. From there, I used a Stainless Steel chiller to drop the temp to what ended up being 158 degrees. I was aiming for 160, and in retrospect, I probably should have pulled the chiller at 165 degrees, gently stirred, then checked temp. This resulted in a lower mash temp than I was aiming for, 148-149, instead of the 151 target. Live and learn.
I did underletting of the grain, and I probably added the water too fast, but even so, I had not a single dough ball come out of that grain. I know that this has been indicated before, but I didn't really believe it. In my case, it was certainly true. I crushed the grain in a 3-roller mill at .035 gap. The water made it to the top of the grain fairly fast; I used my spoon to gently poke down in the grain bed as the remaining water entered the kettle. Very relaxed wetting of the grain.
Just prior to underletting, I ran down to the basement and crushed the grain. The less time between crushing and doughing-in, the less time for oxidation to occur. I crushed the grain into a bucket lined with my BIAB Wilserbag, it took less than 2 minutes. I took it up to the garage, took the bag and put it in the now-empty kettle, and began to underlet the grain.
I hoisted that cooler to a platform (see pic) and from there drained into the mash tun to underlet the grain. Hoisted it up on a platform and from there drained into the mash tun. That worked pretty well. I wasn't sure of the rate at which I should have underlet the grain (I was aiming for maybe 7 or 8 minutes). What I should have done, in retrospect, is measured ahead of time to get a sense of how fast I needed the water to flow. Still, it wasn't too bad. I might go a little slower next time.
I used a stainless steel kettle lid as a mash cap; if there's an area I think I might improve it might be here. I stir at 15 and 30 minutes, and I need to find a way to reduce any oxygen exposure while doing that.
I was also very shocked by the malt aromas; not only was the aroma toward the end of the mash amazing, it was during the boil as well. Smelled like...malted milk balls a little bit.
I should also note my water additions; I use mostly RO water with a gallon of unsoftened tap water which is very hard. I added 6 grams of CaCL2, 5 grams of MgSO4, 1.5 Campden tablets crushed, 1.5 grams of Brewtan-B, and 3 ml of Lactic acid. The pH at 15 minutes was 5.31, which was fine.
I also chilled with the stainless steel chiller; it made me really appreciate my Jaded Hydra. I added 1 gram of Brewtan-B to the boil, though I probably didn't have to. Next time, I'm going to use my Hydra to chill, and adding the BtB this time will allow some level of comparison.
*********
I have never tasted wort as sweet and flavorful as that which started in the boil kettle. Shockingly different. This is with a terribly simple grain bill--10 pounds of pilsen malt and that's it.
I've been fermenting for the last six days and it is now done; I'm using the same recipe and fermentation schedule as the last time I brewed this, though that was non-LODO. I'm using an accelerated fermentation schedule, first half at 50 degrees, second half slowly raised to 66 degrees.
I'll report back on how it turned out. Meanwhile, I have an empty Amber glass that is begging to be refilled.
I brewed an Amber on December 3rd. I did two LODO techniques--pre-boiling the strike water, and using a mash cap. I do BIAB and doughed-in the normal way, adding the grist to the top of the water and stirring. I had a half campden-tablet in the strike water, and beyond that, no other LODO techniques were used.
I am sitting here, 20 days later, drinking one of the best Ambers I've ever had. I had one, and sat here looking at the empty glass.....now I have a mostly-full glass. But it's going down fast.
One question many of us have about LODO is whether we have to do everything recommended to have a positive result. I can't speak about all times and places, but this is a really good Amber. It was really good at just over 2 weeks, too, which is surprising. I would say that there was some positive effect of the LODO approach here, and it's a rich and flavorful beer. I'll post the recipe at the end here.
***********************
But here's where it gets interesting...er. Two weeks later, 12/17, I brewed a Pils. I did a few other things that should help:
I preboiled the strike water in my kettle, then drained it as it was boiling into a pre-heated igloo cube cooler. From there, I used a Stainless Steel chiller to drop the temp to what ended up being 158 degrees. I was aiming for 160, and in retrospect, I probably should have pulled the chiller at 165 degrees, gently stirred, then checked temp. This resulted in a lower mash temp than I was aiming for, 148-149, instead of the 151 target. Live and learn.
I did underletting of the grain, and I probably added the water too fast, but even so, I had not a single dough ball come out of that grain. I know that this has been indicated before, but I didn't really believe it. In my case, it was certainly true. I crushed the grain in a 3-roller mill at .035 gap. The water made it to the top of the grain fairly fast; I used my spoon to gently poke down in the grain bed as the remaining water entered the kettle. Very relaxed wetting of the grain.
Just prior to underletting, I ran down to the basement and crushed the grain. The less time between crushing and doughing-in, the less time for oxidation to occur. I crushed the grain into a bucket lined with my BIAB Wilserbag, it took less than 2 minutes. I took it up to the garage, took the bag and put it in the now-empty kettle, and began to underlet the grain.
I hoisted that cooler to a platform (see pic) and from there drained into the mash tun to underlet the grain. Hoisted it up on a platform and from there drained into the mash tun. That worked pretty well. I wasn't sure of the rate at which I should have underlet the grain (I was aiming for maybe 7 or 8 minutes). What I should have done, in retrospect, is measured ahead of time to get a sense of how fast I needed the water to flow. Still, it wasn't too bad. I might go a little slower next time.
I used a stainless steel kettle lid as a mash cap; if there's an area I think I might improve it might be here. I stir at 15 and 30 minutes, and I need to find a way to reduce any oxygen exposure while doing that.
I was also very shocked by the malt aromas; not only was the aroma toward the end of the mash amazing, it was during the boil as well. Smelled like...malted milk balls a little bit.
I should also note my water additions; I use mostly RO water with a gallon of unsoftened tap water which is very hard. I added 6 grams of CaCL2, 5 grams of MgSO4, 1.5 Campden tablets crushed, 1.5 grams of Brewtan-B, and 3 ml of Lactic acid. The pH at 15 minutes was 5.31, which was fine.
I also chilled with the stainless steel chiller; it made me really appreciate my Jaded Hydra. I added 1 gram of Brewtan-B to the boil, though I probably didn't have to. Next time, I'm going to use my Hydra to chill, and adding the BtB this time will allow some level of comparison.
*********
I have never tasted wort as sweet and flavorful as that which started in the boil kettle. Shockingly different. This is with a terribly simple grain bill--10 pounds of pilsen malt and that's it.
I've been fermenting for the last six days and it is now done; I'm using the same recipe and fermentation schedule as the last time I brewed this, though that was non-LODO. I'm using an accelerated fermentation schedule, first half at 50 degrees, second half slowly raised to 66 degrees.
I'll report back on how it turned out. Meanwhile, I have an empty Amber glass that is begging to be refilled.