Hi,
Did you manage to get 3 decimals in ubidot Reading?
/Jesper
Nope.
Hi,
Did you manage to get 3 decimals in ubidot Reading?
/Jesper
Great, I'm with the 5.1.2 versjon as speaking. Will upgrade to 5.2.1 ASAP. Thanks.Hi again,
Updated from 5.1.2 to 5.2.1 seems to have solved the decimal problem
Has anyone had any success sourcing a vial/tube that would fit in a standard glass carboy neck?
I've measured my carboys, and it seems as though a tube with a total OD (with cap) of less than 28mm ought to fit. I roughly figured that would come to about 20mm ID on a tube with similar wall and cap thread thickness. That should leave just enough room for an 18650 battery (and wire from the bottom) to fit in the vessel. Only problem is, of course, finding the right diameter tube and cap :-/
I'm hoping to obtain a 3D printer soon to prototype a modified sled that would fit an ESP-12F on a narrow carrier board (along with the required electronic components), all inside a ~20mm diameter tube.
Am I insane? Has this been discussed before and I somehow missed it searching this thread?
Why would you want 3 decimals aka 4 significant digits? It's not that accurate or repeatable, so those values are essentially random.
Has anyone had any success sourcing a vial/tube that would fit in a standard glass carboy neck?
I've measured my carboys, and it seems as though a tube with a total OD (with cap) of less than 28mm ought to fit. I roughly figured that would come to about 20mm ID on a tube with similar wall and cap thread thickness. That should leave just enough room for an 18650 battery (and wire from the bottom) to fit in the vessel. Only problem is, of course, finding the right diameter tube and cap :-/
I'm hoping to obtain a 3D printer soon to prototype a modified sled that would fit an ESP-12F on a narrow carrier board (along with the required electronic components), all inside a ~20mm diameter tube.
Am I insane? Has this been discussed before and I somehow missed it searching this thread?
Hi,
I came across this posting and got so excited that I ordered the PCB and all the parts from the wish-list from Aliexpress. Also ordered some Petlings xl at a local shop. Now the final thing to get is the slide which holds the pcb and battery. I'm looking to get that printed through 3dHubs from a local "dutch" 3dprinter. But the thing is that I'm a bit confused which file to use? one of the files from the original iSpindel Git ? and of so which one from that list? https://github.com/universam1/iSpindel/tree/master/drawer or one of the other sliders mentioned here? Like this one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2225597
Which one would fit best with the pcb and the petling xl? which is 16 cm x 42 mm and 33mm inside. Thanks W.
Hi, no I do not (yet) have a Schottky diode BAT43 instead of a 470Ohm resistor. I just purchased all the items from the which-list assuming they where the ones to use. I did not solder anything yet so I can still change parts. I did not read up all the discussions. So why should I use the BAT43 diode instead? (or can you refer me to the part that deals with it).
Remove the input diode (short circuit via Lipomodul!)
The diode on the wemos is a must the gy led is optional, I don't think the power drain is an issue and helps to show that the power is on. There is a picture somewhere in the thread that highlights what you need to remove, I cut it out with wirecutters
I think I saw the picture of the diode on the Wemos D1 Mini Pro.
So it just needs to be removed not short circuited like this says
How do you access the WeMos/iSpindel configuration?
I've built a unit with the pcb @Mikmonken sent me, I've flashed the unit with the 5.1.2 bin file and when I hit reset the blue LED flashes but then nothing. To be honest, I know nothing about these these WeMos, so I don't know the first thing about how to access it.
Is should probably be noted that I used the BAT-43 diode w/ the cathode to D0.
Edited to Add: Attached are images of how I flashed the Wemos. Additionally, I had battery power while flashing. I'm at a loss here, so if someone could could give me some step by step instructions... that would be awesome!
Any help appreciated.
When you say it flashes do you mean one constant flash? If so you're in the right direction.
When it flashes repeatedly about ever 1/2 second it will allow you to access it as a wifi point. Try pressing the reset button repeatedly 4,5,6 times or so quickly and see if that kicks it into access point mode. If not try flashing it again, that should put it straight in the access point mode.
With the RPI and terminal it's pretty easy to tell when it's flashes but I've never used the program you are using.
Well, now I'm only getting a tilt of 0.0. Is this a faulty Gyro?
I had the same problem and it was the faulty gyro!!
Well, now I'm only getting a tilt of 0.0. Is this a faulty Gyro?
I leave the LED on my gyro so I can see it it was power, might be worth checking the connections?
When I enable ispindel in BPL, it does not bring up the status window as it did in previous versions... is this a bug?
FYI - I had to wipe the eeprom flash memory and start again as when i went from BPL 2 - 2.3 it ruined wifi. So this is a fresh esp module with BPL 2.3 on it.
Thanks in advance
*curl -H "Content-Type: application/json" -X POST -d '{"name": "iSpindel01", "id": "111", "temperature": 20.5, "angle": 89.5, "gravity": 1.006, "battery": 3.87}' http://brewpiless.local/gravity
Now I managed to build one iSpindel with the pcb and parts-list from @Mitmonken. Looking great but now what?
How to get the .bin file flashed onto the esp? I connected the NodeMCU to my mac book and tried to get something done using Arduino. It looks like I do not get the serial port popping up. Also I do not have a clue how to get the .bin file loaded.
It has been a while when I poked around with the esp stuff. So how to get this going? Or is my NodeMCU not working properly?
Any advise or simple tutorial to get me going? Thanks WH
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