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RPIScotty said:
If you add a mash cap with a recirc manifold, I would say that you could go down to 20 ppm.
Click to expand...

Do you have any cheap suggestions for a mash cap? Will aluminum foil or plastic wrap work or is aluminum a bad idea? I would need something really thin as I don't have more than an inch or so under the lid of my mash tun. I don't recalculate my mash as I use an insulated tun instead.
 
I float a lid from an old bucket fermenter, and plastic wrap the top of the tun. I think it's important to have something up against as much of the mash surface as possible.
 
masaba said:
Do you have any cheap suggestions for a mash cap? Will aluminum foil or plastic wrap work or is aluminum a bad idea? I would need something really thin as I don't have more than an inch or so under the lid of my mash tun. I don't recalculate my mash as I use an insulated tun instead.
Click to expand...

I have a pizza pan the fits perfectly
 
schematix said:
I float a lid from an old bucket fermenter, and plastic wrap the top of the tun. I think it's important to have something up against as much of the mash surface as possible.
Click to expand...

That sounds easy enough, thanks.
 
my mash tun has an ID of about 18".... i have yet to find a stainless pan for that!
 
Same here - there doesn't seem to be anything that'll fit inside a 20g Boilermaker very effectively (17-5/8" nominal ID).
I've been considering having a fab shop make me a thin gauge SS cap with a short rising sidewall that'd be close to my kettle ID but would still free-float and accommodate my autosparge recirculation without cutting down into the grain bed...

Cheers!
 
Does the mash cap really need to cover the surface 100%? Seems like as long as you greatly reduce the surface area exposed to the environment you should be OK.

If you need 100% coverage plastic wrap seems like the best option(works to keep the skin off of custard), anything metal needs some minimal space around the edge to be practical.
 
Maximizing coverage to the limited factor doesn't seem wrong :)
The Blichmann FB would be the perfect diameter for my needs.
It has about an 1/8" clearance around the perimeter including the effects of the flat-ish vertical weld section of the kettle.

Cheers!
 
day_trippr said:
Same here - there doesn't seem to be anything that'll fit inside a 20g Boilermaker very effectively (17-5/8" nominal ID).

I've been considering having a fab shop make me a thin gauge SS cap with a short rising sidewall that'd be close to my kettle ID but would still free-float and accommodate my autosparge recirculation without cutting down into the grain bed...



Cheers!
Click to expand...


Similar thought here... sounds expensive though.

I'm guessing there's a heat resistant foam type material out there that would float, seal tight, and clean up easily.... just need to find it.
 
masaba said:
Do you have any cheap suggestions for a mash cap? Will aluminum foil or plastic wrap work or is aluminum a bad idea? I would need something really thin as I don't have more than an inch or so under the lid of my mash tun. I don't recalculate my mash as I use an insulated tun instead.
Click to expand...

I use parchment paper.
 
Glad to see this thread active and civil lol

Anyways my comment was regarding mash caps i have seen alot of different ideas but i'm waiting for someone to 3D print a silicone insulated mash cap to match everyone's kettle specs! Would be helpful even for non lodo guys that want an extra layer of insulation for the mash
 
TexasWine said:
This is an interesting find.

I was curious what FDA regulation 21 CFR 177.2600 was, as it is listed as meeting those requirements. Looks like one of the things 177.2600 does is tell us what is safe to use in food applications. Below is an easy to read explanation.

https://hollandaptblog.com/2014/02/21/fda-cfr-21-177-2600-what-is-it-and-why-is-it-important/
Click to expand...

Depending on the price for a custom die cut piece, this could be a pretty good solution. I assume it is buoyant, is food safe at our operating temperatures, can be custom cut for a full seal, has insulative qualities, and I would assume could be fitted with a bulkhead/locline etc for recirc.
Could also be a solution for people with rectangular coolers, like myself.
My biggest concern is if it absorbent at all. I assume the closed cell is not.

Edit, lots of assumptions...
 
Copper is often used a catalyst in silicone manufacture and that would worry me.
 
Bilsch said:
Copper is often used a catalyst in silicone manufacture and that would worry me.
Click to expand...

So what kind of hoses do you use?
I know little about the material, but I would assume that very few materials that leech metal content will clear FDA.
Edit: looking at some white papers, it appears copper's solubility in silicon requires extremely high temperatures. Could one not assume that similar high temp might be required in order for it to leech?
Excuse me if I'm being ignorant here but of all the material phobias I've heard of in homebrewing, silicon is not one of them.
 
Im still working my way through the whole thread, (on page 51 so far), but does anyone have a pictorial or a video of a whole brewday or batch?

I have read the pdf. visited the site, and read multiple posts about the process, but i guess I'm a visual learner when it comes to thjs process.
 
jwalk4 said:
Im still working my way through the whole thread, (on page 51 so far), but does anyone have a pictorial or a video of a whole brewday or batch?

I have read the pdf. visited the site, and read multiple posts about the process, but i guess I'm a visual learner when it comes to thjs process.
Click to expand...

Not sure this is what you're looking for, but here's a video of a low DO brew day. Doesn't necessarily go into all the details if what's going on, but if you've read up on the process, you'll be able to follow along.

http://www.********************/brewing-methods/a-low-oxygen-brewday/

Also, have you read this?

http://www.********************/low-oxygen-methods/
 
jwalk4 said:
Im still working my way through the whole thread, (on page 51 so far), but does anyone have a pictorial or a video of a whole brewday or batch?

I have read the pdf. visited the site, and read multiple posts about the process, but i guess I'm a visual learner when it comes to thjs process.
Click to expand...


http://www.********************/brewing-methods/a-low-oxygen-brewday/


Edit: Texas beat me too it.
 
Bilsch said:
Copper is often used a catalyst in silicone manufacture and that would worry me.
Click to expand...

Not always copper. I would expect to see Platinum, palladium, rhodium, or tin used in the catalyst. Keep in mind also that the metal in there is going to be a fraction of a percent. I'd be more worried about any brass in the process.
 
Jwin said:
So what kind of hoses do you use?
I know little about the material, but I would assume that very few materials that leech metal content will clear FDA.
Edit: looking at some white papers, it appears copper's solubility in silicon requires extremely high temperatures. Could one not assume that similar high temp might be required in order for it to leech?
Excuse me if I'm being ignorant here but of all the material phobias I've heard of in homebrewing, silicon is not one of them.
Click to expand...

To be clear I wasn't thinking about it from a standpoint of toxicity but instead of metal catalyzed fenton reactions. This is after all the low oxygen brewing thread. And yes, good point about the silicon hoses.
 
Lest we not forget the oxygen permeability of silicon as well. [emoji12]
 
dyqik said:
In addition to going closed cell, it's probably important to work out a way of smoothing the cut edges, or you might end up with some extremely yucky cut cells on the edges that are hard to clean out.

I guess in an extreme case, they might harbor bacteria that sours the wort during the mash.
Click to expand...

There shouldn't be a worry here. The malt carries a huge load of souring bacteria and having a nook in the mash tun isn't going to make a difference.
 
mabrungard said:
There shouldn't be a worry here. The malt carries a huge load of souring bacteria and having a nook in the mash tun isn't going to make a difference.
Click to expand...

I guess the extreme case I was vaguely worried about would be wet active bacteria in the opened foam cells, vs. dry dormant bacteria on the grain. Probably you're right, and the load on the grain would outweigh that anyway. And if you aren't cleaning the foam, you probably aren't doing LoDO anyway.
 
I, interestingly enough, kegged 10g of black dipa about 10 days ago that finished higher than I wanted. My starter was somewhat undersized due to shipping delays. I added a pack of CBC with 4oz of hop hash and some amylase to see if it would drop any more. Racked to kegs 5 days later. It has a very clean fermentation profile with no noticable off flavors. At least none I can perceive behind the wall of hops.

This was before I had read any of the recent posts here. My thought was that cbc was alcohol tolerant.
 
Jwin said:
I, interestingly enough, kegged 10g of black dipa about 10 days ago that finished higher than I wanted. My starter was somewhat undersized due to shipping delays. I added a pack of CBC with 4oz of hop hash and some amylase to see if it would drop any more. Racked to kegs 5 days later. It has a very clean fermentation profile with no noticable off flavors. At least none I can perceive behind the wall of hops.

This was before I had read any of the recent posts here. My thought was that cbc was alcohol tolerant.
Click to expand...


Sorry, I am not following?
 
LOL
Yep, sorry
Good call
Was in the rain when I posted. Must have caused a ghost touch or something
 
I thought i saw a chart somewhers, but lost it.

Can you guys give me a starting range of potassium metabisulphite for strike water in mg/l?

My lhbs doesnt carry the NaMeta, only K.
 
http://www.********************/low-oxygen-methods/
http://www.********************/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/DO-and-Mashing.xlsx

ppm/mg/l interchangable.
 
jwalk4 said:
I thought i saw a chart somewhers, but lost it.

Can you guys give me a starting range of potassium metabisulphite for strike water in mg/l?

My lhbs doesnt carry the NaMeta, only K.
Click to expand...

Does your lhbs have a wine section? That's where I found my NaMeta
 
Last edited:
Die_Beerery said:
At the rates we recommend K will be more than fine.
Click to expand...

Cold side question: What levels of DO did you guys measure when you allowed the wort to ferment out, add a sugar solution (boiled water + corn sugar) back to fermenter, let fermentation re-start, then transfer to a purged keg for spunding?

Just asking, because the FFT doesn't seem to be my thing.
 

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