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I guess I'm asking does wort clarity affect the final product? Because I BIAB now and squeeze, and my wort is anything but clear. My final product for beers that should be clear are definitely clear, with finings (in kettle and keg).
I've never read anything that definitively proves that clear wort into the boil (or fermenter) is better than cloudy wort, or vice versa. There are however a lot of opinions that are based on personal preferences, or unsupported beliefs. Do what makes you feel comfortable.

Brew on :mug:
 
Quite a few of our club members now use AIO kettles on 120V and would never go back to their old systems.*
I noticed the asterix I left in my previous post. So for completion:

* Except when brewing on location and at events such as Big Brew, there are usually only a limited number of 120V outlets available, and seldomly 240V ones. So brewers will bring their good old propane rigs for those very wonderful and enjoyable occasions.
 
Yeah, sorry about the sidetrack.
And what could be more simple than a 3v2p gasser with an Armstrong Control Unit? 😁

Cheers! (Sorry for the interruption. Go about your bidness)
 
The more I read of all the complicated systems with their endless frailties here on HBT it makes me happy about my simple system that just plain works. When I get mash recirculation going on my 3v2p fully manual propane rig I rarely have to touch a thing for an hour...

Cheers!

If you hung around for one of my brew days, the last thing you'd say about my eBIAB is that it was frail or complicated. It's a set and forget arrangement that holds temps with 1F and can also run through as complex a step mash you can dream up, all hands off.
 
I guess I'm asking does wort clarity affect the final product? Because I BIAB now and squeeze, and my wort is anything but clear. My final product for beers that should be clear are definitely clear, with finings (in kettle and keg).
I don't think anyone has done any conclusive or convincing testing on this front. Brulosophy did several comparisons of inclusion/exclusion of kettle trub in the fermentation process and the only result was that the more kettle trub in the fermenter, the faster it fermented and cleared. Having more or less grain fine grain sediment in during the boil apparently hasn't been tested all that much or I haven't seen anything on it. It's one of the first experiments I plan to conduct on my 4-way small batch brewing system.

The way I have looked at this over the last few years is that some of the highest performing brewers I know have all this silt in their boil kettle. That's not proof that a clean wort boil doesn't matter. It just proves that if it does matter, it is probably not a huge impact. I think in terms of BJCP scoring. Some of the highest scores I've seen so far; 48/50 for my American Stout. Could that have been a 49 if I filtered out any silt pre-boil? I know, a stout probably covers up any affects. My friend Larry scored 47/50 on a Vienna Lager and also got an NHC silver (44/50) on a German Pils. These styles would be dragged around harshly by any off flavor producing process issues. Again, how much better could it have been with a clean boil?
 
I don't think anyone has done any conclusive or convincing testing on this front. Brulosophy did several comparisons of inclusion/exclusion of kettle trub in the fermentation process and the only result was that the more kettle trub in the fermenter, the faster it fermented and cleared. Having more or less grain fine grain sediment in during the boil apparently hasn't been tested all that much or I haven't seen anything on it. It's one of the first experiments I plan to conduct on my 4-way small batch brewing system.

The way I have looked at this over the last few years is that some of the highest performing brewers I know have all this silt in their boil kettle. That's not proof that a clean wort boil doesn't matter. It just proves that if it does matter, it is probably not a huge impact. I think in terms of BJCP scoring. Some of the highest scores I've seen so far; 48/50 for my American Stout. Could that have been a 49 if I filtered out any silt pre-boil? I know, a stout probably covers up any affects. My friend Larry scored 47/50 on a Vienna Lager and also got an NHC silver (44/50) on a German Pils. These styles would be dragged around harshly by any off flavor producing process issues. Again, how much better could it have been with a clean boil?
I was talking more in terms of clear wort during the mash vs the boil, but good info/food for thought nonetheless. I've seen many brewers talk about nice clear wort recirculating over the top of the grain bed during the mash. I currently BIAB, and I'm stirring a few times during the mash, then again when I pull the bag. At that point, the wort draining through the bag is definitely not clear. I want to know if there is an advantage to having the wort clear during mash recirculation. My guess would be that clear wort means you've flushed the grain of starch for maximum conversion?
 
I hope you get an answer from your landlord to know your future! I think this thread has demonstrated that electrical is best left to purchasing ready made products or hiring somebody to wire it up. "homebrewing it up" with 240V is nothing to mess around with. Having said that, brewing on a 120V system might be a bit slower at times but the industry has moved to lower intensity boils anyway. So jet engine or power plant levels of thermal load are not the best and not needed.

Regarding clear wort, I would like to research Kunze or Narciss to see what they say about it as I know clear wort into the boil kettle is favored in the higher levels of the brewing world. Logically it makes sense to me to leave as much behind in the mash tun as one can. Nothing solid there helps down stream in the brewing process and might bring tannins etc... Experiments would be great but they would need to be focused on the right variables. Not a huge fan of Brulosophy as being a source of experimental data! This topic is more about chemistry than anything else imho. While you might get wort clarity going out of the boil kettle, it is more about the compounds that were transferred in and if they have a negative impact going through the boil process.
 
Regarding clear wort, I would like to research Kunze or Narciss to see what they say about it as I know clear wort into the boil kettle is favored in the higher levels of the brewing world. Logically it makes sense to me to leave as much behind in the mash tun as one can. Nothing solid there helps down stream in the brewing process and might bring tannins etc... Experiments would be great but they would need to be focused on the right variables. Not a huge fan of Brulosophy as being a source of experimental data! This topic is more about chemistry than anything else imho. While you might get wort clarity going out of the boil kettle, it is more about the compounds that were transferred in and if they have a negative impact going through the boil process.
There are many brewers who firmly believe boiling grain bits produces superior beer.
See decoction.

Brew on :mug:
 
I was talking more in terms of clear wort during the mash vs the boil, but good info/food for thought nonetheless. I've seen many brewers talk about nice clear wort recirculating over the top of the grain bed during the mash. I currently BIAB, and I'm stirring a few times during the mash, then again when I pull the bag. At that point, the wort draining through the bag is definitely not clear. I want to know if there is an advantage to having the wort clear during mash recirculation. My guess would be that clear wort means you've flushed the grain of starch for maximum conversion?
During the mash, most of the wort volume has grain bits suspended in it. And any clear wort returned to the top of the mash quickly makes its way back into the bulk of the grain. The clearness is transitory.

Brew on :mug:
 
I do my first mash pH check 20 minutes after strike and roughly 15 minutes of recirculation, and on Tuesday's brew noticed the sample had already gone nearly bright and tasted very sweet. Next time I might try a starch test (something I've never done in almost 20 years of brewing :oops:) at that point with some solids included and see how close to complete it actually is at that time. I'm assuming it isn't all that close yet...

Cheers!
 
I do my first mash pH check 20 minutes after strike and roughly 15 minutes of recirculation, and on Tuesday's brew noticed the sample had already gone nearly bright and tasted very sweet. Next time I might try a starch test (something I've never done in almost 20 years of brewing :oops:) at that point with some solids included and see how close to complete it actually is at that time. I'm assuming it isn't all that close yet...

Cheers!
Why not just test the SG of the wort in the mash. The max wort SG @ 100% conversion is determined just by the strike water to grain wt ratio, and the weighted average grain potential of the grain bill (which is pretty darn close to 37 for most typical grain bills.) Note that the full volume of the wort needs to be well homogenized to get accurate results. Recirculation in traditional false bottom MLTs insures good homogenization, but not so much in AIOs with solid sided malt pipes (water between the pipe and vessel wall does not participate in the recirculation.)

Here's a chart for max wort SG vs. mash thickness for a grain potential of 37 pts/lb:
Max Mash SG.png


Read more here.

Brew on :mug:
 
I was talking more in terms of clear wort during the mash vs the boil, but good info/food for thought nonetheless. I've seen many brewers talk about nice clear wort recirculating over the top of the grain bed during the mash. I currently BIAB, and I'm stirring a few times during the mash, then again when I pull the bag. At that point, the wort draining through the bag is definitely not clear. I want to know if there is an advantage to having the wort clear during mash recirculation. My guess would be that clear wort means you've flushed the grain of starch for maximum conversion?

No one that I'm aware of is looking at clarity in the mash for the mash's sake. The implications of a vorlauf (recirculating) is trapping fines inside the grain bed so that only clear wort makes it to the boil kettle during the lauter. During the mash, fines caught in the grain bed are still "IN" the mash so that's moot. There IS plenty of debate about the flavor impact of milling too fine, with or without shredding husks, in possible extraction of tannins. At this point, I'll concede that a pulverized grist is more likely to contribute tannins slightly more than a coarse crush, but only when mash pH was already too high for both situations.
 
Actually testing for conversion has always struck me as not only unnecessary (given my processes) but potentially misleading if it's used to decide when to actually end a mash. I always mash for a full hour, followed by a mashout that at Δ2°F/minute takes another 10 minutes to rise to 170°F, and then by the time I get the wort in the bk (at 1 qt/min and a preboil of 13 to 14 gallons depending on the recipe) that's nearly another hour! I figure it's as converted as it's gonna get 🤷‍♂️

Cheers!
 
Regarding clear wort, I would like to research Kunze or Narciss to see what they say about it as I know clear wort into the boil kettle is favored in the higher levels of the brewing world. Logically it makes sense to me to leave as much behind in the mash tun as one can. Nothing solid there helps down stream in the brewing process and might bring tannins etc... Experiments would be great but they would need to be focused on the right variables. Not a huge fan of Brulosophy as being a source of experimental data! This topic is more about chemistry than anything else imho. While you might get wort clarity going out of the boil kettle, it is more about the compounds that were transferred in and if they have a negative impact going through the boil process.
It's kind of a moving target. If someone quotes anything from Kunze or Narciss, the retort is that it's less applicable on a homebrewing scale. If someone quotes results of Brulosophy, the controls were too loose for the data to mean anything. I think the right approach is to assume the results in all cases MIGHT mean something. I'd say if you have your mind made up about something, there's such an instinct to right things off and pick apart the parameters of an experiment. I do it all the time.
 
I agree, bias is hard to get beyond. With my 3 vessel system, getting the clear wort is very simple, so I do not see it as a hurdle to overcome. I would need to try to get cloudy wort at this point. But for BIAB, single vessel folks, it is more of a challenge and decision to try and tackle. In my view, mashing is one of the areas where professional beer production does equate down to the homebrew level. So if the ancients say and prove it is better, then I am on board with them. :)

Regarding mash readings, I have gone to not using time as a measurement of mash rests but rather percent of my desired pre-boil gravity. One rule of thumb is to stay in beta until you get at least 90% of your pre-boil gravity. This ensures a highly attenuative wort. One can play with this lever to get different types of worts but it keeps the focus on the actual mash at hand rather than a random time increment. I use a long plastic pipette to grab little amounts of wort for my refractometer readings.
 
There are many brewers who firmly believe boiling grain bits produces superior beer.
See decoction.

Brew on :mug:
Yes, decoction throws a wrench in some arguments. But the practice is viewed as a device for the mash and I wonder how they view the grain boiling post enzyme activity? Otherwise, why lauter at all? The lauter process is to not have all of the mash "stuff" in your boil kettle to clear way for hops and trub formulation. To what extent of 'clean wort' makes a difference? The answer is about what difference one is looking to examine. I will have to get back with you after some research.
 
Yes, decoction throws a wrench in some arguments. But the practice is viewed as a device for the mash and I wonder how they view the grain boiling post enzyme activity? Otherwise, why lauter at all? The lauter process is to not have all of the mash "stuff" in your boil kettle to clear way for hops and trub formulation. To what extent of 'clean wort' makes a difference? The answer is about what difference one is looking to examine. I will have to get back with you after some research.
Once you get the decocted fraction to a boil, the enzymes are denatured. At that point there is no enzymatic action taking place during the decoction boil, so the chemistry isn't going to be significantly different than during a wort boil with some grain present.

Brew on :mug:
 
Actually testing for conversion has always struck me as not only unnecessary (given my processes) but potentially misleading if it's used to decide when to actually end a mash. I always mash for a full hour, followed by a mashout that at Δ2°F/minute takes another 10 minutes to rise to 170°F, and then by the time I get the wort in the bk (at 1 qt/min and a preboil of 13 to 14 gallons depending on the recipe) that's nearly another hour! I figure it's as converted as it's gonna get 🤷‍♂️

Cheers!
Once you mash-out, which denatures the enzymes, there will be no more conversion of starch to soluble starch, dextrin, or sugar, and no more hydrolysis of soluble starch and dextrin to fermentable sugar. SG stops rising once all available starch has been reduced in molecular wt to soluble starch, or shorter carbohydrates. Thus your effective mash time is only 70 minutes, no matter how long your sparge/lauter takes.

Brew on :mug:
 
Although 120V is slower to heat than 240V kettles, it mostly counts when getting (cold) tap water to strike temps, and later the wort from mash temps to boil.

When using the delay timer to get to strike temps, the only time you need to wait around for 30-45 minutes is to get it to boil.
Good, efficient kettle insulation will help with that, or as you pointed to, using a 2nd heater element.

Quite a few of our club members now use AIO kettles on 120V and would never go back to their old systems.* Their beers are as good or better, and they're winning competitions as before.

Once you reach those target temps, 120V vs. 240V make no or little difference.

Are you going to be brewing indoors in your garage or in a door opening?
My biggest gripe with my 120v AIO system was the ramp times. But I recently added a hotrod heat stick to my arsenal and put it in during ramp times (start to mash and mash to boil) and it cut those times in half, maybe more.
 
No one that I'm aware of is looking at clarity in the mash for the mash's sake. The implications of a vorlauf (recirculating) is trapping fines inside the grain bed so that only clear wort makes it to the boil kettle during the lauter. During the mash, fines caught in the grain bed are still "IN" the mash so that's moot. There IS plenty of debate about the flavor impact of milling too fine, with or without shredding husks, in possible extraction of tannins. At this point, I'll concede that a pulverized grist is more likely to contribute tannins slightly more than a coarse crush, but only when mash pH was already too high for both situations.
That's a great explanation. That's what I was looking for. Thanks
 
I pulled the trigger and purchased the Anvil Foundry 10.5 tonight. I like the 120v/240v option, and I already have so many of the other add-ons that come with the other AIO systems. This will suit my need for now!

Also, I learned a great deal from this thread. Thanks to everyone who chimed in. Hopefully it can help other people out as well!
 
Once you get the decocted fraction to a boil, the enzymes are denatured. At that point there is no enzymatic action taking place during the decoction boil, so the chemistry isn't going to be significantly different than during a wort boil with some grain present.

Brew on :mug:
I meant overall enzyme activity as when you add the decoction back in to the mash. But it still is an interesting situation.
 
I found a nice concise paper about the effects of lauter turbidity. It is kind of an overview of industry research on the topic. I encourage a read-through as I it goes over the positive and negative aspects of really clear lauter wort and turbid lauter wort. https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/pdf/10.1002/j.2050-0416.2006.tb00716.x

In the end, I think it does not matter at the homebrew level unless you want to pursue it. The largest negative seems to be yeast health/performance during fermentation. Basically very clear lauter wort strips out important nutrients for yeast health. As long as this is addressed with yeast numbers/nutrients all is good. This is something I will be looking at since I like clear wort.

Good topic and glad I looked into it as too much of a good thing can be bad or overdone.
 
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Unfortunately, there's no chance in Hell our condo association will assist us with a rewire. They make us pay for EVERYTHING regarding anything inside. I could ask though...Thanks!
I know it’s not the primary topic, but I’m curious. I own a 1 bdrm condo and have lived here (and brewed!) for 8 years. I’ve been involved with my condo board, ran and lost in an election and, sorry to say, pay $600/month in dues. It pays for NOTHING
 
Never finished the post because the page reloaded a couple time while I tired to type! lol
Anyway, I wanted to ask wepeeler what condo association would pay for inside unit work?? It’s not like a rental, you own your unit.
 
Never finished the post because the page reloaded a couple time while I tired to type! lol
Anyway, I wanted to ask wepeeler what condo association would pay for inside unit work?? It’s not like a rental, you own your unit.
None that I know of!
 
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