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Yeah, I went cheap on the sump pump and hose. I've got a couple Chugger pumps in my set-up, but wanted more CFM for CIP ball to really do it's magic. We'll see how long the cheap stuff lasts. I didn't think it was worth buying a really expensive sanitary pump and associated hoses and fittings...

No issues with pump and using PBW. In fact, it still pumps faster than conical drains.

On my first iteration, I had the reducer hanging off the motor. On my second iteration, I did it the other way around. Either works fine. Just make sure you've got something sturdy to mount either too.

On my first iteration, I had the reducer hanging off the motor. On my second iteration, I did it the other way around. Either works fine. Just make sure you've got something sturdy to mount either too.

I've been using 10 and 20 gallon stainless conical fermenters (Blichmann Fermenators) for quite a while. In fact, my first one was the first "fancy" piece of equipment I ever bought ... and totally worth it! Anyways, I've now moved up to a 40 gallon Stout Tanks conical. The way I used to...

Here's link for table: http://www.webstaurantstore.com/regency-16-gauge-24-x-60-stainless-steel-commercial-open-base-work-table-with-backsplash/600WT24X60BS.html

Cart along with the stainless tables are from http://www.webstaurantstore.com. Cart is actually a dolly for dish trays. It was a little pricey to get in stainless. There's less expensive versions in aluminum or plastic.

Monster mill mounted to stainless table for combo milling, weighing, and storage center. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=373083&page=8

The base will help spread the load of the motor if you're going to hang it off the gear reducer. However, you'll still need another spacer under that one (~3/4" thick) to raise the shaft of the gear reducer to line up with the shaft on the mill.

The base will help spread the load of the motor if you're going to hang it off the gear reducer. However, you'll still need another spacer under that one (~3/4" thick) to raise the shaft of the gear reducer to line up with the shaft on the mill.

Thank god for cheap Chinese stainless steel and a forgiving wife! ;)

Just for the hell of it, here's pics of the whole brewery. At some point, I plan on putting all my photos of this basement remodel and brewery build on it's own thread.

Here's the photos ...

Ok ... so I moved from CA to NY, sold almost all my old equipment to my friend, had a clean slate, and decided to crank it up a notch! I'm building a new brewery with 1 BBL Stout tanks and an electric setup from theelectricbrewery.com. More than just buying the controller from Kal, his set-up...

I finally made a good dubbel with this yeast. It has great, complex esters. I think the trick was pitching cool (~65F) and warming up (75F) at the end for a few days to let it finish to avoider gushers. I'm encouraged now to attempt a quad again to see if I can avoid the really strong...

That's pretty weird. I have the same gear reducer and didn't have any issues. You should be able to get Lovejoy coupler halves in almost any shaft diameter size from McMaster Carr. Another option would be to drill out the Lovejoy coupler parts you have to fit over the shaft. Sent from my iPad...

I always found racking really slows down fermentation. My first "big ticket" equipment purchase a few years back was a conical fermenter. It's awesome and totally worth the money. No more racking to secondary (you just drain gunk off the bottom), easy to keg and bottle (by pressurizing), easy...

Great thread!! I mostly use WLP500 (and mostly make tripels) which ferments quickly, but flocculation is poor and supposedly doesn't have as complex flavors as WLP530 and WLP540. I've used WLP530 on a couple batches of dubbels and they were both gushers in the bottle. I was struggling to...

Great approach for your build. Using a gear reducer is the way to go. Belt and sheaves makes the cart more complicated and is just dangerous. I've had mixed results with the Barley Crusher. My idle roller kept sticking and I was always cleaning gunk out of the bushings and lubricating them. I...

I'd caution against thermal paste. I tried that and it made such a seal around the thermocouple probe that I couldn't push it into the thermowell because the air in the thermowell couldn't come out (think of a tight piston in as cylinder). If you get the right combination of thermocouple and...