Recent content by cgriffith

I concur. Just enough taunting to push me over the edge and actually create that thingiverse account. Check it out here. I too had a few busses in my day (a 1973, and a 79). Last year I tried to see if I could buy one for ol' time sake and got sticker shock.

I made a VW tap handle for a buddy of mine a couple years ago; I don't keg yet. I followed this technique. However, instead of having a slot for nut to slide in the side of print, I just epoxied the nut to hex cavity I created in print. Unfortunately I don't have pics to prove it.

Sorry for delay, I was out of town. I have this model. I use it as fermentation chamber. Is there something I can get for you? I don't have kegs to measure.

Are you questioning the purpose of this thread? If so, the purpose is to not use a raspi. In case you have not noticed, over the last two years, the price of a Rpi has gotten crazy, if you can even find them. I have no spare Pis (but a few ESP8266 laying around) and found this project very...

Yes that is what I am doing. I use the 5V out of ESP8266 as relay VCC and Digital pin out of ESP8266 (@ 3.3V) to turn relay on/off. I was trying to settle a myth that I found prevalent online that said the on/off signal must be 5V (not 3.3V) in order to work properly.

I was planning on using one of these 2Pcs AC DC Converter Module Universal 110V 120V 220V 230V to DC 5V 12V Isolated Switching Power Supply Board (DC 5V 2A Version) Is that not safe?

Just posting this here in case someone else looks for this info... I am currently doing a Brewpiless build. V1 (breadboard version) is running a Black IPA now. I have a 120V AC / 5V DC relay module that is pretty common and read somewhere that since these ESP8266 boards only use 3.3V output...

This is your run of the mill safale us-05 that was harvested from a previous brew. Only thing interesting about it is that I has been dormant in my fridge for a year. For me the big difference in this brew is the use of a temperature controlled fermentation chamber. My purpose of this thread...

10 days in, still seeing CO2 bubble every minute and a half. I think just think that is so unusual. Not worried. Just curious. I want to dry hop, but will wait a few more days I guess.

This is my first batch ever where I used a freezer+arduino temp controller for fermentation. I am seeing CO2 generation still after a week. Temp has cycled between 65 and 69 degrees F. In the past, I always just tried to regulate temp using ice packs. I have never seen this before...

Can you expand on this comment please. I was planning on doing this when I finally get around to building my temp controller, but want to understand your point.

@chthon with fullest of respect, I don't think your method of using a plastic bag solves the issue. If in fact your plastic bag is "air tight", the moment you remove the bag, air will rush in as negative pressure results from the cooling wort. I prefer to have this air, in the least, filtered.

@grzrk please keep us posted.

I do BIABFIAKNC. That is brew in a bag, ferment in kettle (chapman univessel), and no-chill. So at end of boil I clamp lid and a put in kitchen sink to cool enough to move to out of way location. During cool off, I have a air filter attached on lid so i can draw sterile(hopefully) air...

I was looking for the smallest chest freezer I could use for fermentation chamber. I searched this thread but found no posts confirming the use of a 3.5 cu ft.. In any case, I purchased a Magic Chef 3.5 cu. ft. Manual Defrost Chest Freezer from Home Depot. In case the link goes bad, it is...